The Best Time to Ride the Bernina Express
Summer for long days, early October for gold larches, January to March for snow at the pass: the Bernina line through the year, with this winter's notes.
There is no closed season: the Bernina line runs all year, and every season looks different from the train. June to September gives the longest days and green valleys, late September to mid-October the autumn larches, and January to March deep snow at the pass. The worst conditions are not a month but a day: cloud sitting on the pass hides most of what you came for.
Through the year
| Months | What it is like on the train |
|---|---|
| December to March | Snow from Pontresina to the pass, Lago Bianco frozen white, bright cold days. Short daylight: afternoon rides end near sunset |
| April and May | Snowmelt season: waterfalls in the valleys, snow still on the peaks. One reviewer thinks mid-April to May is the most beautiful time, for exactly that |
| June to August | Long days, green Val Poschiavo, the busiest trains. Book panoramic seats early |
| September to mid-October | Clear air and gold larches around Pontresina and Morteratsch. Quieter than summer |
| Late October and November | Between seasons in St. Moritz, with some shops and restaurants on reduced hours. Early sunsets |
The temperature gap is the constant. The line tops out at Ospizio Bernina, 2,253 metres, and Tirano sits at 429, so whatever the month in Milan, bring a warm layer for the top.
Winter: what changes
Trains keep running through the snow; the line was built for it. Two things change for a visitor. The light goes early from late October to late February, so afternoon views can fade on tours that ride the train last, and tours that run the train in the morning get the better of it. And St. Moritz is a seasonal resort: in the gap between autumn and the ski season some shops and restaurants keep reduced hours.
From 26 October 2026 the Bernina Express runs in its low season, with fewer trains and a lower seat-reservation supplement; the national timetable change comes on 13 December 2026. Between 29 October and 13 November two Bernina Express trains from Chur, 951 and 952, are diverted through the Vereina tunnel for engineering works; the St. Moritz to Tirano stretch is not affected. RhB’s winter offer for two, a return from Chur with lunch for CHF 249, is bookable from 1 November 2026 to 31 January 2027 (all rhb.ch, checked October 2026).
Summer: what changes
More trains, more people. The regional trains fill up and seats are unreserved, so arrive at the station early; the Bernina Express needs a reservation in any case, and summer dates go first. For a day trip from Milan in July or August, booking a week or two ahead is sensible.
Summer also brings the Rhaetian Railway’s open scenic carriages, open-air wagons that run between St. Moritz and Tirano daily from 22 June to 30 August 2026. There is no supplement, any valid first- or second-class ticket gets you on, and single travellers cannot reserve a place (rhb.ch, checked October 2026). The Lake Como cruise on the homepage day is at its best in summer too.
Which month we would pick
For a first ride with one chance at it: September. The summer crowds have gone, and the days are still long enough for an afternoon train. For photographs: the first half of October for the larches, or a clear day in February for the snow. Check the forecast for the pass, not for Milan, the night before.
For the two trains, the season matters in one more way: open windows are a pleasure in July and a test in January.
Lake Como and the Bernina, Any Month
The day from Milan with a Lake Como cruise, free time in St. Moritz and the red train over the pass, running through the winter. Check the date you want before you book.
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